[Scott Cruickshank]

The end cap is necessary to get the stroking motion. The cap has to breathe through the valve or you get pop offs, that’s a term you’ll see all over this forum. It means that you were going along nice and the receiver flew off. It’s a real drag. You have to pick it up off the floor, jam it back on and hope it doesn’t happen again. You have to have the cap with the valve or it won’t work properly.

Anyway, the double valve does work better if you like to run at high speed. It lets the air out quicker and prevents a lot of pop off problems when running near the top end of the speed range. Some people like the double valve because with two, one can get one stuck and the other one is still open, but you can cure that just with the piece of sponge or even kleenex as somebody suggested above. And I think for some of the wider diameter receivers for guys who are really thick and/or long, it works better with a double for increased air flow.

A note on speed, one of the reasons why you might want a double vent cap. When you order a Venus you imagine you’re going to run it full blast all the time. Like what could be better than that you’d think. When you get it and try it, you find out it’s way more pleasurable to run it at 1/4 or 1/3 speed. You try it once at full out, and you probably never do it again. Almost everybody who has one will tell you that. I’m sure you’ll find out the same as we all did. I’d say there’s a 98% chance you won’t need or want one. You can always order one later if you do.

[Scott Cruickshank]

Right on. Let me know what you decide to use and how it goes for sure. Use a mold release this time too. You can buy it in spray cans, but I’ve heard some people using cooking spray like Pam. You spray a thin coat over your mold before you cast. Since the silicone won’t stick to oil, and the oil doesn’t stick to the mold, it pops right out. Though there are some compounds I hear that require a special release agent. Liquid car wax, Vaseline, WD-40 are a few others some people use. I say do a test, mix up a small amount, apply to a coated piece of scrap. See what peels off easy and what doesn’t.

Good luck.

[Scott Cruickshank]

Good try. Looks like you dipped a bolt. That’s a good idea. I hadn’t thought of that. I’ve often thought myself about trying to make a liner, kind of like you did. I think a better choice might be something with a Shore closer to the stock liner and something very stretchy. I think a good choice might be 30/30 Slide. They use it to make Masks. High stretch, a little stiffer in the Shore department, and highly tear resistant. I might order some and give it a shot myself.

I think where you went wrong is with the 10 Shore. Gotta be higher than that. I bet Ecoflex 30 would have worked better.

[Scott Cruickshank]

I just found a picture of that percussion massager. It wasn’t a Sunbeam, it’s a Conair. The Conair Professional. The great thing about it is that the heads are very close together and have an elongated shape that makes a nice pocket with each head resting nicely on each side of the shaft. Most of the other models from other companies have the heads spaced too wide. Unless you’re built like John Holmes, the heads don’t even touch. I like the infinitely adjustable speed slider too, so you can get the speed just right.

Over the years the twist on replaceable heads got worn out inside and got loose, so I just glued them on permanent with 2 part epoxy. I’ve had it I bet 10 years now. I have to buy another one just in case they stop making them.

[Scott Cruickshank]

You set it right, use lots of lube, it will go 6 inches in both directions. Way further than the A-10 or any of those hand held auto this or that jobs. Nothing else could possibly match it, except for the Robojac which is the same sort of machine. The original one actually. At higher speeds the receiver tends to fly off a little more often so you have to keep the suction higher to make the strokes shorter. It’s probably a function of momentum. What goes up fast, has to stop fast and reverse direction too. You won’t want to use it at top speed anyway. It’s not near as good as it is at low to mid speeds.

The one-way breather valve is in the end cap. That thing has to stay open and in order for the Venus to function properly. The problem is that lube gets in the valve and all that fast rushing air dries it out and sticks it shut like it’s glued, sometimes in mere moments. That’s what the sponge is for. So lube can’t get to that valve and plug it up. You’ll see it when you get it. Cut the round disk out of some light sponge, shove it just under the cap, and that problem goes away. That’s something you pretty well have to do.

I don’t remember the name of that thing, but it’s a dual head percussion job, and it pounds hard. I got so used to the bone shaking job that thing dishes out that I could hardly feel the Cobra. I used it one time, left it on about 20 minutes and went through the pulse patterns over and over trying to find a powerful one. I had to give up and complete the job the old fashioned way. I bet that thing is great for most people, but I need a rough ride. I have a flashlight I’ve only used once too. Same general problem. The Tenga Spiral is way better, pleasantly rough inside and a little stiffer material. I’d recommend one of those before the Fleshlight any day.

I wish the Venus was just a bit rougher in the stimulation department, but I’m not complaining too much. I’ve rigged up slightly rougher surface and I’m happy with it. Even if you’re the same as me, you’ll still like it no matter what. I used to like to go zero to 60 just as fast as is possible. Now I actually like stretching it out a little bit. The Venus just feels so very good, I find I’m not in quite so much of a hurry anymore. You’ll like this thing, I have no doubt.

[Scott Cruickshank]

I have most of those too. The only one any good, that I still use regularly, is the percussion massager. I think it was a Sunbeam. The name wore off years ago. I bet it’s 10 years old, and I don’t don’t I’ve used it 10,000 times. Still do regularly. The Venus is still better. But sometimes I don’t feel like taking the time to set it up even though it’s all of about a minute. Sometimes I just don’t feel like getting all covered with lube, or haven’t got the time for it. You might not use it as often as what you might think, but when you do, you’ll be glad you spent the money.

Read up on the threads while you wait. The thing takes a bit of fine tuning to get it running right. Having some idea how to work the air box before you get it will put you a step ahead on the learning curve. If you understand what the air box does, you’ll have an easy time. Air Out makes the unit suck tighter and harder, but also makes the stroke length shorter. Too tight and it won’t stroke at all. Air In makes the stroke longer but it doesn’t suck quite as tight. Too loose and it’ll keep blowing itself right off. You always want to be somewhere in the middle of the two extremes. If you can wrap your mind around what’s happening air flow wise you’ll have a much easier time getting the hang of it. It would have been better if they had labelled it, SUCK MORE/SUCK LESS. Air in/out doesn’t really tell you anything. Even after all this time sometimes I find myself sitting there wondering which button I should push. Air In makes it suck harder…. no wait… wait maybe… yeah that’s right. Recently I have put a piece of tape on my box and used a marker to label the buttons, “harder”/ “less”. You should do the same as soon as you get it. And read this thread in particular. https://venusformen.com/forums/topic/easy-fix-for-sticky-end-cap-valves/ The design has one big flaw, but it can easily be fixed. Get the stuff you need, make the simple modification before you even get started.

If you have trouble post it here, somebody will figure it out.

[Scott Cruickshank]

That’s too bad Walt. The problem with applied materials, is that the gunk you put on has to stretch as much as the liner does or it just peels off. It’s not so much a matter of strength of the bond, as flexibility of the cured material. I’m thinking of trying to make my own liner, Dragon Skin or some similar silicone cast over a plastic pipe the correct diameter. Carve the texture into the pipe then coat it with the silicone. When it cures, peel it off and with any luck It will work.

I’m beginning to believe that’s the way forward. Maybe if someone can demonstrate a successful prototype, we can talk Abco into putting it into large scale production. I found some stuff called 30/30 Slide that is made to slide easily over surfaces, particularly skin. They use it to make masks. It’s stretchy and resistant to tearing. I’m wondering if it possible that you wouldn’t even need lube with that stuff. Maybe just plain water, or maybe nothing at all. Wouldn’t that be nice?

[Scott Cruickshank]

Just noticed this on the Lexel product webpage:

“Will not adhere to or is incompatible with Aquaseal®, Kynar®, polypropylene, polystyrene foam insulation, polyethylene, rubber, silicone, Styrofoam® (it dissolves it), Teflon®, vulcanized rubber, and waxes”

Not a good sign.

I think the liners are latex though, so it might hold. Latex isn’t specifically listed as not compatible. Keep your fingers crossed.

[Scott Cruickshank]

Let me know how that stuff works out Walt. I’m very interested in hearing how long it lasts. Nothing I’ve tried has worked so far any longer than a few minutes. I heard that Locktite has a new rubber glue that’s high stretch, high adhesion. Problem is that it’s like 50 dollars for the tiny little half ounce tube. Must be made with powdered gold dust or unicorn piss or something. I just can’t bring myself to blow 50 on a half ounce of something I don’t know will work.

I do have an idea I’ve been kicking around in case that stuff doesn’t hold. Punch a series of small round holes in the center of the liner and put a dab over the holes, making sure they’re overlapping the sides of the hole. When that dries turn the liner inside out and do the same to the other side. The idea is to make something of a silicone rivet that seals the hole and can’t be pulled through from either side, if you can picture it. Then it shouldn’t matter too much if it sticks to the rubber or not. The oversized rivet head will stay in place and suction pressure should seal the holes tight on both strokes, kind of like a reed valve.

[Scott Cruickshank]

That’s probably an end cap vent clog. If that little valve clogs it causes all kinds of problems like that and it happens early and often with the Venus. Lube gets in there and dries out very quickly. I’ve had it happen in 30 seconds after starting. Then it’s just a constant fight to get it back working correctly again. It’s the one flaw in the system, but it can be easily fixed. You need to take a tooth pick and pop the valve back open from the inside and run warm water through it to flush it out good and clean.

Then make one of these: https://venusformen.com/forums/topic/easy-fix-for-sticky-end-cap-valves/
That should probably take care of it.

[Scott Cruickshank]

It’s possible your end cap vent is plugged. All kinds of strange things can happen when the vent is plugged. Take the cap off and fill the cap with water. If it doesn’t run out the hole, it’s plugged. Get a toothpick and stick it in there and pop it open. Then rinse it out with lots of warm water. Then make one of these: https://venusformen.com/forums/topic/easy-fix-for-sticky-end-cap-valves/

Mart may be right about the air control box. To test if it’s working properly, take the box off the hose and blow air into it with your mouth. No air should pass through. Press the green button and air will go through. Then try to suck air out. No air should come out until you press the red button. If it works any way other than that, you’ll need to replace it. If it’s working properly, check both hoses for leaks and make sure they’re tight at both ends like Mart said.

If you know it’s not the box, and you’re still having problems, and what Mart said doesn’t work, you might have to get inside the unit and change the position of the push rod on the drive disk. You’ll notice the disk has 5 threaded holes on it. Move it one hole closer to the shaft of the motor. That will decrease the amount of air being moved in and out per stroke and should make the stroke shorter so it doesn’t go up as high or down as far. If it’s still too much, move down another one.

If you bought that second hand and ordered a new receiver to fit you, that position on the disk might not match the size of receiver you have. The match has to be correct to work properly.

The disk looks like this:

Disc

[Scott Cruickshank]

Not really sure what you’d be using that seal for Peg. One thing you have to keep in mind is that it can’t be too tight or you’ll lose action.

[Scott Cruickshank]

Just curious. Did you heat it up and shove something into it to stretch the wall out? Or did you somehow add a piece?

[Scott Cruickshank]

It’s probably more a matter of pressure mart. When you add hose you increase the total volume inside the closed system. Then it takes more volume of air in and out each stroke to generate the same pressures you had with the shorter hoses. It would be the same thing as going to a larger length and diameter receiver.

You could probably remedy that by switching the push rod position on the fly wheel, as if you were setting the machine to accept a larger receiver. Probably the next hole up, maybe 2. But once you had it set, you’d always have to use that longer hose. If you took it off, you’d be pushing too much air instead of not enough. Pop off city.

You can probably add maybe 2 or three feet and not notice much of a difference, but a 10 foot section, you’d need to adjust the machine for that.

[Scott Cruickshank]

You can use the clear silicone stuff you find at home Depot and Lowes. That’s what I use. You just use a long run of it so there’s lots of slack. Slack is the key. If you have the hose stretched out as far as it’ll go, you’ll get reduced action no matter how flexible it is. When you have an extra coil of hose lying beside you, you’ll have no problem no matter how stiff it is, to within reason of course.

And it’s cheap, like 3 bucks for 10 feet. Try that first before you put yourself to so much trouble.

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