DIY TEXTURED LINER

[Walt]

Hi Guys, Thought I would share what I did to create a textured liner. I posted a couple of pictures on the Yahoo group sitevenus2000formen2@yahoogroups.com under “dickmann”…In brief I found this product called LEXEL which is a tough elastic sealant. It is advertised as extremely elastic and adheres to anything. I took some standard liner material and dabbed it all along the liner except for the top and bottom 2 inches (so I could fit it over the receiver and get a good seal). I let it “cure” for 48 hrs. Then I turned the liner inside out so that all my “bumps” were inside. I use a 3″ inch receiver but imagine it will work for any size. I consider my V2K as one of the best investments I ever made, but “variety is the spice of life”. I am thick and enjoy a slow stroke. I lubed up with JO lube and gave the liner a try. It was awesome and I could feel every knob as it slide along my shaft and over my cock head. I am anxious to see how this configuration holds up after some prolonged use. (A though job, but somebody has to do it). BTW the nobs are nice and soft and flexible and not hard. I am loading up some jack-off material and plan a nice long session tomorrow. Would be interested in any feed back or improvements you have.

[Scott Cruickshank]

Let me know how that stuff works out Walt. I’m very interested in hearing how long it lasts. Nothing I’ve tried has worked so far any longer than a few minutes. I heard that Locktite has a new rubber glue that’s high stretch, high adhesion. Problem is that it’s like 50 dollars for the tiny little half ounce tube. Must be made with powdered gold dust or unicorn piss or something. I just can’t bring myself to blow 50 on a half ounce of something I don’t know will work.

I do have an idea I’ve been kicking around in case that stuff doesn’t hold. Punch a series of small round holes in the center of the liner and put a dab over the holes, making sure they’re overlapping the sides of the hole. When that dries turn the liner inside out and do the same to the other side. The idea is to make something of a silicone rivet that seals the hole and can’t be pulled through from either side, if you can picture it. Then it shouldn’t matter too much if it sticks to the rubber or not. The oversized rivet head will stay in place and suction pressure should seal the holes tight on both strokes, kind of like a reed valve.

[Scott Cruickshank]

Just noticed this on the Lexel product webpage:

“Will not adhere to or is incompatible with Aquaseal®, Kynar®, polypropylene, polystyrene foam insulation, polyethylene, rubber, silicone, Styrofoam® (it dissolves it), Teflon®, vulcanized rubber, and waxes”

Not a good sign.

I think the liners are latex though, so it might hold. Latex isn’t specifically listed as not compatible. Keep your fingers crossed.

[Walt]

Well alas my experiment didn’t work out that well…the nodules started coming off and the liner sprung a leak in on spot where the Lexel had ruined the liner. Oh well back to the drawing board..

[Scott Cruickshank]

That’s too bad Walt. The problem with applied materials, is that the gunk you put on has to stretch as much as the liner does or it just peels off. It’s not so much a matter of strength of the bond, as flexibility of the cured material. I’m thinking of trying to make my own liner, Dragon Skin or some similar silicone cast over a plastic pipe the correct diameter. Carve the texture into the pipe then coat it with the silicone. When it cures, peel it off and with any luck It will work.

I’m beginning to believe that’s the way forward. Maybe if someone can demonstrate a successful prototype, we can talk Abco into putting it into large scale production. I found some stuff called 30/30 Slide that is made to slide easily over surfaces, particularly skin. They use it to make masks. It’s stretchy and resistant to tearing. I’m wondering if it possible that you wouldn’t even need lube with that stuff. Maybe just plain water, or maybe nothing at all. Wouldn’t that be nice?

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